https://honeybadgerbk.com/
Amidst the backdrop of Hurricane Henri, our group of five were blown away, not by the wind and rain, but by the incredible experience we had at Honey Badger (HB) restaurant in the Prospect Lefferts Gardens neighborhood of Brooklyn, NY. We were seated in a private and quaint outdoor chalet complete with music, fan, air purifier, plexiglass windows and tree branches weaved into the ceiling that miraculously kept us dry despite the record breaking deluge outside our little sanctuary.
I arrived without reading reviews or descriptions of the cuisine. I was only told Brooklyn and “wild-to-table” so I was intrigued, yet a bit wary. If your expectations are set for large portions or a formal Michelin-star experience, then HB may not be your jam. I’ve enjoyed many meals at those restaurants, but they are like the symphony of fine dining, whereas HB has the flare and improvisation of a jazz performance - both are amazing in their own way.
Husband and wife team Junayd Juman and Fjolla Sheholli immediately set the tone with their warmth, enthusiasm, knowledge and what they described as a palate “opener.” The spilanthes flower bud had us all wondering what could possibly come next as our salivary glands kicked into overdrive. The sensation was so novel that I delayed eating the other parts of the amuse-bouche to let the party in my mouth continue for a few minutes longer.
We were delighted by what seemed like a torrent of a dozen different courses that included Montauk oysters underneath a glass dome filled with juniper smoke that filled our cabin with a lovely aroma when unveiled. We also had acorn cheese with wild berries, cucumbers and olive oil made by Fjolla’s family, seaweed taco, scallop carpaccio underneath squash blossom, truffle with mushroom, squid, sea bass, egg from traveling chickens and many other unique and wild ingredients combined in a bold, yet delightful way. The pace was never too slow and at times, it was the opposite as several courses were presented in unison. My description doesn’t do the cuisine justice as my mind was racing to keep up with the flurry of new items we were introduced to. Even with a menu, it would be impossible for me to fully appreciate the thought and creativity weaved into every dish.
HB has built a loyal network of local foragers and fisherman who drop off their discoveries to create daily surprises that are then deftly prepared at HB. This is where Fjolla’s childhood in Kosovo, Junayd’s Trinidadian heritage, their exposure to Italian, French and Asian cuisine, their expanding knowledge of techniques and recipes forgotten or lost over the generations are all combined with wild ingredients, some of which are preserved and stored at HB, to create a truly inspired and memorable dining experience.
We were in awe the entire meal, and eagerly awaited each course. Drink pairings were interspersed, and also had unique backstories - fermented drinks made at the restaurant inspired by Native American traditions, tiny strawberries the size of blueberries used in a cocktail, biodynamic white wine, and touching personal stories about the winemakers.
Somehow Fjolla & Junayd found plenty of time to talk with us despite being a team of 3!?! at the restaurant. I can’t forget their daughter Nina who played DJ for the night. They regaled us with their love of the virtues and health benefits of wild ingredients, as well their efforts to support their local Brooklyn community. As if the tireless work foraging, operating the restaurant and raising their daughter aren’t enough, their hearts still have compassion to rally neighbors and farmers to prepare meals for 60+ elderly members of the community that were literally starving at the depths of the pandemic. I believe HB also opens its space during the day to local vendors to sell their goods.
What an incredible team who are innovating, and yet humble as they are constantly learning about the infinite treasures nature offers. They also maintain a boundless optimism and energy despite the pandemic headwinds that no doubt have impacted them as well, but they somehow turn it all into a positive. If it hasn’t happened already, it’s only a matter of time before New Yorkers, and people in the US and abroad, are clamoring to experience the magic and movement Fjolla and Junayd are creating at Honey Badger that leaves a positive impression that lasts far beyond the few hours spent at the restaurant.
Everything about HB is special. I can’t wait to return to support this under the radar gem. As if on cue at the end of our experience, two mushrooms opened up just outside our parklet, although I’m not sure they were the edible type ; ) Oh, the wonders of nature!